It seems like the busy town Berlin has forgotten this part of it. Around the oldest church of Berlin, the Nikolai - Church, narrow alleys and small side streets are arranged. Except the outer walls of this beautiful church, which was built between 13th and the 15th century, this building was completely destroyed after the Second World War.
Pedestrian areas invite for shopping at small shops, boutiques or antique shops. This district is really an oasis of repose. Everywhere you find little coffee shops, bars or comfortable restaurants for having a break of rambling through the Nikolai District.
Not only today but also in former times is this district an attractive place for artists. Already Lessing, Ibsen, Goehte or Otto Nagel promenaded along the streets full of nooks and crannies. Some artists even lived at the Nikolai District, for example the famous Berlin painter Heinrich Zille. To him was actually dedicated an own museum, in which his expressive pictures are published. The Zille Museum opened in 2002.
For Berlin as the capital of Germany the Nikolai District has an important relevance. Here is the cradle of Berlin, because the town privilege was appointed here in 1230.
Already before this time merchants settled near the crossing point over the Spree. Here lays the ancient town centre of Berlin. Later in 1539 it was here decided, that the whole area Mark Brandenburg became Protestant. And in 1809 the first elected city council assembling met at this district.
The historical meaning is also noticeable in the amount of museums. A special one is the Hemp Museum. It is the only one in Germany. Merely in Amsterdam and Bologna two other museums have the single topic cultivated plant hemp and explain the whole sides of this controversial plant.
Outwards the Nikolai District belongs not really to the historical highlights of Berlin. Rather the melange of old and new makes this location interesting. Like the rest of Berlin the Nikolai District was not spared from the devastation of the Second World War. Nearly the whole neighbourhood was completely destroyed. And many years the GDR forgot this little piece of earth. But as the 750 anniversary celebration stood before, the district was rebuilt by the plans of the architect Günther Stahn. Only a few houses could be restaurated to their original appearance. New buildings were combined with historical buildings like the Ephraim Palais. This house is a typical example for the Berlin Rococo and was constructed between 1762 and 1766 for the Jewish banker Veitel Heine Ephraim. He was the jeweller of Frederick the Great.
The architectural design of this town part is not uncontroversial. Industrialized apartment blocks alternate with old frontages. To make the modern houses looking a bit more ancient, the architects decorated the front façade with old elements like iron balcony balustrades. It's just an ensemble of historic and historicised houses. An authentic historic house is the Knoblauchhaus. It is originated from the 18th century and it impresses you with its early classical floral décor. Today you can visit a permanent historical exhibition with the theme: The 19th century.
Don't wonder if you turn into a street called Eiergasse and this road ends a few steps after you entered it. This is Berlin's shortest street. Former there were sold eggs like the name already explains.
It doesn't matter how authentic the Nikolai District is at least. The main point is that tourists as well as inhabitants enjoy the harmonic atmosphere of the paved narrow alleys. The picturesque compound of old and new, makes the Nikolai District to one of the most beautiful places in Berlin. Text: A.K. / Übers. C.D.
